Amelia Island

Amelia Island is one of Florida’s least visited islands

Outside of the Southern States, not too many people recognize Amelia Island, its history, and miles of white sand.  However, beach-savvy, island seekers have long flocked to the barrier island located on Florida’s Atlantic coast with easy access from Jacksonville. 

A petite 13 miles long and about 4 miles wide at its heftiest point, the less than 40,000-person oasis on the southernmost island of the Sea Island chain is just a short Nassau River Bridge crossing from mainland Florida. Visitors and locals immediately recognize the charm and allure of Amelia’s slower rhythm. In an 1896 edition of American Resorts magazine, it was quoted that vacationers referenced the island as “The Queen of Summer Resorts” because such names as the Vanderbilts, Carnegies, DuPonts and other prominent U.S. families frequented the island. Today, it offers a much more laid-back, diversified landscape with influences from around the globe.

The historical enclave holds all sorts of odd and unique accolades. The tiny island has been under the leadership of eight different countries in 400 years. And, during a 200-year period in this time stretch, Amelia Island attracted the largest concentration of seafaring thieves in America including Jean Lafitte, Blackbeard, and Red Legs Greaves. The barrier island hosts Florida’s oldest saloon, oldest and longest continually operated hotel and the State’s oldest lighthouse. Stroll Centre Street in the historic downtown district to view more than 400 structures on the National Register of Historic Places.

Amelia Island also provides a surf escape without much threat of a hurricane; there have only been three hurricane-strength storms to pass near Amelia Island in the last 155 years. The beach culture has remained intact, golf carts are driven throughout the island, beach volleyball pick-up games are abundant and multiple harbors provide for sea-faring adventure.

Beach Scene

Amelia Island has 13 miles of beaches and over 40 public beach access points. The island is surrounded by various water systems: the Atlantic Ocean, the Intracoastal Waterway, Nassau Sound, and Cumberland Sound.

Seaside Beach, the island’s most popular beach along the Fernandina Beach stretch, is family and fido friendly. There is designated parking, although it fills easily on spring through fall weekends and summer weekdays, restrooms and outdoor showers. North Beach Park is a more laid back and quieter option with covered pavilions, picnic tables, parking, and a boardwalk to the beach.

Peter’s Point Beachfront Park has it all—wide beach for play, sport, sunbathing and a stroll, surf fishing, swimming and public bathrooms. Beach driving is allowed in a 4-wheel drive vehicle and a valid driver’s license showing residency in Nassau County; tip, get a local guide to take you!

Fort Clinch State Park has a crazy story. The 1,400-acre park not only has miles of beaches to explore, but Fort Clinch is the oldest masonry fort in the nation. For $6 or under, visit the park which is either a short drive or accessible via bicycle or to walkers. Explore the fort, numerous rooms, and touch a row of cannons pointing across the St. Mary’s River into Georgia.

Beach Bites

Amelia Island is the birthplace of America’s modern shrimp industry; therefore, expect shrimp to be on many menus for every meal, and even in the Bloody Mary’s. There’s an eclectic mix of fine dining, beach shacks, taco stands and grab and go options. With over 40 restaurants on the island, there’s more than just burgers and dogs.

Salt Life Beach Shack

A Jacksonville legend, the eatery opened up a location in Fernandina Beach with their popular tuna poke bowl, fresh sushi and shrimp, street tacos, class American burgers and more. Try local favorites including Bahamian Fish Chowder, avocado fries and crab-baked oysters. (saltlifefoodshack.com)

Espana Restaurant & Tapas

Open nightly for dinner, this is a must for a charming evening al fresco. The expansive patio is the prime location for a stunning showcase of Mediterranean bites with a burst of Florida seafood. Classic dishes from Spain and Portugal include calamari, shrimp, papas bravas, chorizo and dozens more options. (espanaamelia.com)

The Surf

Locals and visitors have been dining al fresco, seaside at this eatery since 1957. Get your seafood fill along with delicious sides and fresh cocktails. Everyone’s happy with the menu diversity from burgers and flatbreads to local chowder and produce. The scene is stellar and the attached Surf Beach Motel is a choice spot to bed down for the evening. Check their website for local entertainment and note the restaurant is closed on Tuesdays. (thesurfonline.com)

Beachy Beverages

Mocama Coffee (and brew)

Whether it’s an iced coffee on the go during a bicycle ride, or a Sunday meet-up, this coffee shop, wide-open and industrial is also the home of Mocama Beer Company. Grab a morning pastry and latte, or an afternoon brew from the taproom, the dual-purpose beverage hub is in a great central spot. (mocama.com)

Amelia Island Brewing Co.

Located on a tree-lined, cobblestone street is the island’s namesake brewery with indoor and outdoor seating. Inside, there is an open air space with a bar, rotating and standard taps, appetizers, pub menu and communal seating. Outside, the alley provides for more niche and cozy spots and a large patio has larger table options. There’s also local music and entertainment. (ameliaislandbrewing.com)

Palace Saloon

Smack dab in the middle of Fernandina Beach is Florida’s oldest bar. The Palace Saloon was the very last tavern to close during Prohibition and was transformed into an ice cream parlor to survive the dry days. Famous American families such as the Rockefellers and the Carnegies visited the establishment. Today, it’s always a welcome spot, with colorful locals and visitors wanting in on a piece of history. The bar has brews, wine and cocktails, and there is often a food truck in the back, outdoor area. (theaihg.com/the-palace-saloon)

Hola! Cuban Café

A local favorite for morning caffeine, the café has been open since 2013 and will often have a line out the door for Cuban coffee. Open Thursday – Sunday, the menu is cultural and extensive and the atmosphere tropical with the indoor and outdoor seating. Go for the buzz and stay for the breakfast pastries. (holacubancafe.com)

Beach Sport

Fishing

On and around Amelia Island, you can find three completely different kinds of fishing. Surf fishing, done from the shore, is most popular (in what season) where anglers can snag (what kind of fish). Fly-fishing, a burgeoning Amelia Island sport, is prime almost year-round in the flats and shallows where redfish and tarpon can be snagged. Book Amelia on the Fly with Captain William D. Cochran, an Orvis-endorsed fishing extraordinaire, but also a local historian with loads of stories about the waters. (ameliaonfly.com)Looking for a little off-shore fishing? Amelia Angler Outfitters (ameliaangler.com) takes anglers 8 to 20 miles offshore for opportunities at  sailfish, cobia, kingfish, wahoo, amberjack, barracuda, cobia and more. Visit

Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission for license information.

(myfwc.com/license)

Kayak, SUP, Boat Tours

For a small island, the kayak options are plentiful. The Bullington Family, owners of Amelia Island Kayak Excursions, more than six locations and options for paddlers. Egan’s Creek explores an estuary, Lofton Creek is a mellow, two-hour paddle on a black water river, Loften Creek, mesmerizing for the reflective nature of the water and deep sediment trails. Take a longer, more rigorous kayak tour to neighboring Cumberland Island, home of wild horses. Other adventures include the Amelia River and a sunset tour, St. Mary’s River, the Suwannee River, and the Okefenokee Swamp, which is massive at over 400,000 acres, is loaded with aquatic and land creatures. (ameliaislandkayak.com)

Bike Rentals

There’s nothing more laid back and relaxing than a beach cruise. Amelia Island has over a half-dozen bicycle rental shops. There are e-bike options, scooters, beach cruisers and more. From Fernandina Beach, ride to Fort Cinch along the bike trail for a nice workout and stop along the way for coffee and a bite before exploring the historic fort. Some parts of the fort are accessible with the proper bike, others are better viewed by foot. Cruise through Egan’s Creek Greenway or the new three-mile River to Sea Trail from Crane Island to the beach. (ameliaislandtrail.org/bikerentals) Want to try pedaling on the water, that’s an option as well. Amelia River Cycle takes guests along the Amelia River to try their wheels on water. (ameliarivercycle.com)

BEACH STAYS

There are two large resorts on the island, The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island and Omni Amelia Island Resort. Both are more isolated from other parts of the island. The Ritz’s property has an incredible spa, outdoor activity offerings and views. The Omni, Hampton Inn & Suites Amelia Island—Historic Harbor Front is a great value and location.

Amelia Island Williams House

This is the epitome of the historic, tropical South. Built in 1856 and continuously renovated, the stunning retreat has modern bathrooms and elegant guest rooms. There are ten rooms spread across three buildings, with plenty of niche spaces. Breakfast is included and the mansion and garden are located in the heart of Fernandina Beach. Don’t miss the B&B’s massive 500-year-old live oak in the center of their courtyard. (williamshouse.com)

The Florida House

One of the closest options to the beach is the Florida House, and has been for some time. It has the designation of Florida’s oldest continuously operated hotel. The 1857 structure was originally a railroad boarding house. The modern version houses 17 guest rooms nestled around a courtyard with fountain. There is onsite parking and continental breakfast included. The Southern rooms reflect original construction with wooden floors, fireplaces and giant windows. Onsite, there is also a southern restaurant, and an old English style pub. (floridahouse.com)

Learn to play Pétanque

There’s plenty of off-shore activity to keep island-seekers entertained. Amelia Island has six 18-hole golf courses and a 9-hole course open to the public. There is a local trolley tour, popular for the multi-generational crowd. Tennis and pickleball courts are located throughout the island. Stroll historic Ferdinand Beach with dozens of retail boutiques, sweet treats, restaurants and bars. Learn to play Pétanque, similar to Bocce ball at Fernandina Harbor, where the largest Pétanque event in America is held in November. Also in November is the free Right Whale Festival on Main Beach honoring the endangered North Atlantic Right Whales (less than 350 remain in the world) to the warm coastal water off Northeast Florida and Georgia, where they give birth to, and nurse, their young.

The charm and allure of Amelia’s slower rhythm is calling and for those looking for a luxurious retreat one should answer and let the slower side of the south sink in.

Villa del Palmar Cabo San Lucas in Cabo San Lucas

Escape to An All Inclusive Resort in Cabo San Lucas? Looking to gather with a group of friends and family in a relaxing tropical locale? My daughter and I discovered the perfect winter getaway for a friend and family celebration at Villa del Palmar Cabo San Lucas in Cabo San Lucas. 

When you live in a resort community where others are dying to vacation, it seems silly to some to want to escape. Living in a mountain town is a dream come true. There are beautiful views, outdoor activities, and a connected community, but sometimes you dream of soft white sand rather than fluffy snowfall and sunny warm weather to tan your pale, winter skin. 

I dug out the summer clothes and said goodbye to spring skiing to escape to the famous tropical destination of Cabo San Lucas. This Mexican town is a mecca for college spring breakers. Our scheduled week of Spring Break doesn’t align with our community’s resort-driven calendar. (A little secret, most mountain town public school calendars accommodate area workers and businesses since this is our region’s most significant tourism week). For us, the Spring Break holiday is pushed into mid-April. Once college students return to school, beach resorts offer great rates and an off-season feel. Escaping from crowds is a joy. 

Picking a hotel in a foreign country can be daunting as you’re researching a place based on a stranger’s biased reviews. We tend to go with word of mouth and had heard locally that the Villa del Palmar Cabo San Lucas was a fantastic all-inclusive resort with a swimmable beachfront that perfectly accommodates large groups. We were going to have a lot of people.

This trip was our final holiday as parents and high school “Seniors.” We wanted to vacation as one big group of parents, some grandparents, kids, and young adults. 

The Villa del Palmar Beach Resort & Spa Cabo San Lucas could serve a mass of people. Since our group booked different types of rooms, I could see the style and set up of accommodations for families big and small. Everything from comfortable hotel rooms to Penthouse suites was available, and they were beautifully furnished with kitchens and space to kick back and relax.

The food was astonishingly good, given the reputation of all-inclusive resorts. Guests could book a room only offering a classic hotel room or add an All-Inclusive package for unlimited food and drink. Guests were issued a wristband to be worn at all times giving access to unlimited food and beverages without the need to carry a wallet. There were seven main restaurants to choose from and a market to stock your room (not part of the all-inclusive package). All were sit-down restaurant establishments except for the sports bar with order-to-go pizza. 

The largest restaurant was an open aired sit-down dinner and breakfast with a breathtaking morning buffet. A second excellent beachside cafe, the Carbon Grille, was opened for dinner and served outstanding grilled meats, seafood, and vegetables on the cutest miniature tabletop grills. Bars were all over the resort and would hand you a drink whenever you asked. Beachside bar service was available during daylight hours too. My favorite was Sushi Original, a little sushi shack at the resort with the freshest fish and an eye-catching presentation. It beat most of the sushi restaurants I have experienced in our mountain towns. Local food vendors and restaurants were only a few minutes walk from our location, but the resort’s offerings were so good we did not feel compelled to wander off. 

The water on the beachfront wasn’t the soothing, flat of azure waves that people imagine when they think of beaches. The beach at the Villa del Palmar drops off quickly, causing the water to rise up and crash down with spectacular force. Some could be injury-inducing if you weren’t paying attention. Since our group was an active, daring bunch, we grabbed tubes and rode the biggest waves before being washed out in the sand. They rope off the ocean swimming area so you can’t swim too far out to where area riptides exist. There are no lifeguards, but the resort’s security lets you know when the ocean is dangerous and should not be entered for recreation.

On the beachfront, many vendors were expected in many foreign beach town communities. Some find them irritating, constantly selling their wares, but I loved browsing the beautiful products and hearing well-thought-out sales pitches while I practiced my Spanish. For those who didn’t want to see vendors, there was an area to escape their attention.

The Villa Del Palmar Cabo San Lucas offered many activities. Their offerings included nightly musicals, salsa dancing, swim lessons, fashion shows, and more. Several pool areas were available on the resort grounds for those who wished to swim. There was an adult-only pool, a shallower pool to cool down, and a kiddie pool area too. The giant whale slide in the kid’s section was surprisingly fast and could possibly take off your bathing suit, so be warned but have fun.

Drinking is a part of group travel to Mexico, and the legal age of consumption is 18. Because the drinks are cheap and vacation means sleeping, choosing an all-inclusive resort was an intelligent choice. Nightclubs included great entertainment, expensive drinks, dancing, and occasional strip shows. Many clubs on the main strip were a cab drive away. Once dropped off, you could begin the club crawl. We voted El Squid Roe our favorite among all the clubs we visited because of the venue’s multi-themed floors, games, music, and dance opportunities. 

There are a ton of opportunities to recreate. Paddle Boarding, sunset cruises, parasailing, snorkeling cruises, fishing, ATV Tours, golf, and more are all available. We had our entire group of 50 head out with Cabo Blue on their Trimaran Sailboat for a cruise and snorkeling adventure. The crew was fantastic, along with the lunch and beverage selection.

While visiting any foreign location, the first thing people should be concerned about is crime. As a traveler, it is of the utmost importance to be aware of the dangers and stay updated on area news. Personally speaking, I neither saw nor experienced crime whether I was in the private, secured resort or downtown Cabo San Lucas. 

Visiting Cabo’s downtown was a lovely beach walk away. Stores and gift shops, the marina, restaurants, clubs, pharmacies, and hotels dotted the streets. The local residents were very friendly and accommodating.

If you’re looking to escape to an All Inclusive Resort in Cabo San Lucas, we vote yes on going to an all-inclusive resort, especially Villa del Palmar Beach Resort & Spa Cabo San Lucas. It made our stay fun, hassle-free, and a trip to remember for a long time to come.

by Holly GoSpritely

Suggested Contacts:

Villa del Palmar Beach Resort & Spa Cabo San Lucas

www.cabo.villadelpalmar.com

Cabo Blue Trimaran Cruises

www.caboblue.net

Airport Shuttle Service

www.loscabosairportshuttles.com

Matachica Resort & Spa Belize 

Story by Caren Austin | Photos by Kevin Austin

Winter chill in Colorado and beyond is a beautiful time of year to enjoy all that the season has to offer. It is also a fabulous time to take an off the beaten path beach vacation to Matachica Resort & Spa in Belize. I had the opportunity to visit this unbelievable gem a few months ago, and I returned knowing I had to write about this naturistic beauty of a resort.  

Matachica Resort & Spa is for the adventurous, the true foodie, and the “I just want to get off the grid and relax” type of traveler.  Getting to Matachica is easy from Denver and major airports as they offer non-stop flights straight into Belize City.  After a short 15-minute plane ride to San Jose, you are whisked away via boat to arrive pier side, giving you that “White Lotus” feel. 

Arriving by boat makes the experience even more special.  The resort boasts 29 thatched roof casitas and three two-bedroom villas. They are each named after a type of fruit, and the murals on the wall and color scheme reflect the vibrant colors of the fruit the casitas are named after, which is stunning to say the least.  

The resort’s kayaks are a fantastic way to see the 2nd largest barrier reef in the world, which sits very close to the resort.  Bring your snorkel gear as the view underneath the water is just as beautiful as the view above it.  You can book scuba diving, a private beach BBQ, snorkeling tours, and spa treatments at the Jade Spa for an extra cost.  The spa treatments were so good, I booked another one for the next day.  It was one of the best massages I have ever had. 

As a foodie who seeks out unusual types of foods and restaurants, Matachica Belize Resort and Spa did not disappoint.  We loved both restaurants Mambo, and Mambo Bistro.  Mambo Bistro is the resort’s more casual restaurant, open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner; while Mambo, voted Belize’s 2023 Restaurant of the Year is something truly spectacular. The Lobster ravioli was a great starter at Mambo, and over the days we were there, we dined on the Deep Blue, the pork chop, and the Seafood Fettucine.  The Deep Blue is a seafood platter that I will never forget.  It is served with a Lobster Tail, a Caulker Crab Claw, Shrimp and Scallops, topped with a vanilla Beurre Blanc. It arrived looking like a piece of art.  It is a must order if you are looking for very fresh seafood. 

The resort also offers a Belizean dinner twice a week where you are walked through a menu that reflects the true essence of where Belizean food came from. Another two things not to be missed is the freshly baked bread, made from scratch every day, and the Key Lime Pie. I don’t want to spoil the surprise on the pie, so I’ll let you see it for yourself.  All their produce comes from the garden at their sister resort Gaia Riverlodge, and it is as fresh as can be.

Matachica’s mantra is “Private By Nature” and it is exactly that.  Next time you are thinking about getting away, think a bit out of the box, grab your swimsuit, and your flip flops, and embark on a vacation of a lifetime.  Matachica Belize Resort and Spa is waiting for you with open arms.  We can’t wait to go back.

Matichica is part of The Lighter Collection. Discover your next stay here: https://thelightercollection.com/matachica/

GET SET TO SAIL AWAY FROM THE COLD- CARIBBEAN CRUISING

Sail Away and Escape Winter 

by Julie Bielenberg

If your idea of a true Caribbean vacation includes an overnight on the seas, then these two Cruise options might be the most accessible and ideal for those living in snowy states.

Bahamas Paradise Cruise Line

Bahamas Paradise Cruise Ship

Want to get to the Caribbean quick and cheap? Why not fly into the Miami / Fort Lauderdale area and cruise to the closest island possible to the mainland? This is the only cruise line to offer daily departures to Grand Bahama Island from the Port of Palm Beach. 

So much Fun On-Board!

There are a variety of rooms in which to choose and price ranges. Multiple restaurants, in-room dinning, two pools, theatre, casino, lounge, conference center, card room, huge atrium, fitness center, salon, kids club, plaza for shopping—it’s got all the amenities of the massive ships and long voyages, yet it’s a quick trip and sampling, a different way to access Grand Bahama Island.

bahamasparadisecruise.com

Windstar Cruises 

Windstar Cruises

You’re a true Coloradan adult. You want to ski in the morning, golf in the afternoon and dip your rod in the river come sunset. You can’t commit to one activity, or one island. Avoid the masses and opt for this adults-only cruise line that features Caribbean departures from ports in Puerto Rico, Barbados, Aruba, and St. Maarten that include several of the above island destinations. Their ships carry a maximum of 310 passengers, offer award-winning cuisine, and have been named “most romantic” by the experts at Cruise Critic. And there’s plenty of time to explore the appropriate island for your zip code because Windstar often stays late (or overnights) in port.  

Consider their 7-day Classic Caribbean to visit Dominica. Choose their Jewels of the Windward Isles, Sweet Southern Caribbean, Windward Islands Surfs & Sunsets, Gems of the Leeward Islands, or Winter Antilles Escape itineraries to visit Grenada. Their Caribbean Legends voyage stops at both Grenada and Dominica; while the Best of the ABC Islands stops at both Grenada and Tobago. Ship perks include complimentary snorkel equipment for every guest as well as use of Windstar’s unique water sports platform, with water toys like stand up paddle boards and kayaks. 

windstarcruises.com

Low maintenance, high-yield! Julie Bielenberg is a Denver-based writer. She has three young children —Hank, Dora and Addy. Bielenberg and her family are on the road 80 to 90 nights a year in search of travel and leisure activity for outlets and assignments. Julie is known for being extremely low maintenance and a high-yielding journalist. She contributes over 75 travel stories per year to various outlets including: AAA, USA Today’s 10Best, 5280 Magazine, Mountain Town MagazineFamily Vacation Critic,Westword, Colorado Meetings + EventsMile High Mamas, Mountain Town and Mountain Meetings Magazines, Real Food Traveler and many more. slowandgo.org

Eco-Friendly Adventures at Corcovado Wilderness Lodge

This wilderness lodge, Corcovado Wilderness Lodge, on the Osa Peninsula prioritizes sustainability, preservation and passion for nature

“Pura vida,” the Costa Rican catchphrase, philosophy and M.O., has never proven truer than at Corcovado Wilderness Lodge, a property occupying a remote swath of beach and rainforest on the Osa Peninsula bordering Corcovado National Park. 

Having visited Costa Rica’s more touristy regions, my partner and I felt compelled to travel to a less frequented corner of the country. The possibility of experiencing Corcovado Wilderness Lodge – a property overhauled last year by eco-conscious brand Soul Community Planet (SCP) – became a reality this November. Occupying 189 acres of private reserve adjacent to Corcovado National Park – the most biodiverse slice of the planet – the property proved adventurous even before we stepped foot onto its shores. And by step foot, I mean splashed out of the boat after it was maneuvered through a series of tight rocks and crashing waves into knee-deep ocean. The lodge, like the national park, can only be reached by boat. The route we chose took us on a small (12-seater) plane from San Jose to Drake Bay, where lodge staff picked us up to drive through shallow rivers to board the small boat the same way we disembarked – wading through ebbing waves. Another means of accessing the lodge involves driving to the riverside town of Sierpe and taking a 1.5-hour boat ride through the mangrove-lined river and along the coastline.

Paradise Arrival

The beachfront section of the lodge’s property is home to a vibrantly green expanse of grass, fruit trees, flowering bushes and towering palm trees. As we arrived, the trees were swaying in the breeze and serving as the snacking ground for about 12 scarlet macaws. A miracle of natural color, these large, rainbow-flecked birds soared overhead throughout our five days in the area, nuzzled their life partners on branches and glided from tree to tree in perfect synchronicity. 

A vehicle took us to the footbridge leading to our treehouse villa, one of 20 newly constructed during SCP’s recent overhaul of the property, which also included installing a massive solar garden and onsite water sanitation plant. We reached our rainforest villa on elevated paths through ancient trees and vibrant flowers where a series of butterflies, including the surreal blue Morpho – Costa Rica’s national emblem – fluttered magically. 

Our spacious villa was equipped with air-conditioning, toilet, shower, coffee station, outdoor bath and king-sized bed. Two walls were glass, including the sliding glass doors that led to the massive, elevated patio, featuring a hammock, chairs and outdoor bathtub. Providing front row access to our own stationary safari, watching the jungle and its creatures with the Pacific glistening in the background – was one of my favorite parts of the whole experience. 

Prioritizing Environmental Preservation 

Like the rest of the country, more than 95 percent of which is run on renewable energy, the lodge prioritizes conservation and protecting its abundant surrounding landscapes. No single-use plastics are allowed on property, signs in the village remind visitors to turn off AC and lights when leaving and meals are comprised of locally sourced ingredients – including produce from the property’s gardens. The lodge strikes a balance between luxury and minimalism, serving small portions and repurposing all organic waste for compost. All meals are served at the three lodge restaurants, rotating depending on our activities.

The Lodge partners with local nonprofits – Nama Feline Monitoring Center, Innoceana Marine Conservation, Restor Forest Research Lab, Pristine Playa, Adopt A Coral and Blue Warriors. Visitors can learn all about the work, the unique species in the area and threats they face in a dedicated research bungalow. There’s even a state-of-the-art microscope where you can bring in items from the forest floor (we zoomed in on a tropical pinecone used as a “monkey brush”) and investigate their intricacies. Every employee exemplifies the pura vida philosophy, particular in their genuine passion for nature and wildlife, the access to which is the ultimate reason to come here.

Excursions include a guided tour of the park, accessed from the property’s own entrance. The park tour was the first of our planned activities, led by a guide named Michael, who’d grown up on the Caribbean side of the Peninsula and seemed to know the medicinal qualities of every single plant and tree we encountered as well as the sound and footprint of every animal and insect (Corcovado is home to more of each than anywhere else in the world – 13 tropical ecosystems). Honestly, compared to the wildlife we’d already seen up close on the lodge property, the tour was more educational than abundant in sightings. 

Exotic Wildlife

Michael recognized the call of rare birds, somehow spotting a few amid the jungle’s density of leaves and vines. He pointed out a fist-sized Golden Silk Orb-Weaver spider, explaining its unique web-building skills and harmlessness. Howler and Spider monkeys occasionally screeched and leapt between 100-foot-high treetops of the thousand-year-old trees, whose roots, in some cases, grew together horizontally across a soccer-field distance, snaking over, under and around the surrounding minefield of other vegetation. We were told by guides of other groups we encountered – which, once we reached the main entrance of the park, seemed numerous compared to the human sparsity of our lodge property – that a puma had been sighted wandering the park’s trails, and was probably responsible for the uncharacteristic quiet of our surroundings. We did see an anteater –  curled into a black and white ball on a high tree branch, it resembled a panda – as well as a throng of coatis (the racoons of Costa Rica) zigzagging across our path. 

Upon returning to the villa, we saw another anteater shuffling through the leaves right in front of our patio and later, a whole swarm of peccaries – doe-eyed, bristly wild pigs – shuffling through the thick foliage right before our eyes. 

As I was walking up to the bar area to refill my water bottle one afternoon, a staff member ran up and asked if I’d like to see the tapir – a large mammal resembling a baby elephant – that had been spotted eating grass near the beach. We watched it in awe for about 30 minutes as it peacefully ate and wandered.

Magical Marine Creatures

The other excursions included a snorkeling tour off the shores of Caño Island – an uninhabited chunk of land lying about 11 miles across the Pacific from Corcovado. Although the water was somewhat murky due to recent landslides caused by climate change, we saw an abundance of marine life, including reef sharks, schools of colorful parrotfish, triggerfish and even a couple of large sea turtles, who swam majestically from the ocean floor to the surface for intermittent breaths of air. 

Arguably our most magical wildlife encounters arrived on the whale watching tour. Shortly after leaving the shores of Corcovado, we encountered an enormous mother Humpback whale teaching its baby how to use its blowhole. We watched as the mother’s sleek back slowly emerged through the water like an island surfacing. We heard the chug of her breath through the spout of water shooting from her head. She would then roll forward like a giant wheel turning. A second or two later, the baby would emerge and imitate this routine. Our guide – a young and passionate marine biologist named Fabiola – explained that the mother was swimming under the young whale, pushing it upward to guide it through this sequence. 

After we left the scene, only a few minutes passed before our next marine show. A pod of spotted dolphins suddenly appeared, leaping and weaving around the boat. We also witnessed an intermittent airshow of brown boobies flying low and sweeping up sardines, as well as a rare Nazca booby that traveled to the area from the Galapagos.

One of the most surreal experiences on the trip was coming across a pack of false killer whales – a type of orca that looks like a large dolphin, but which, in fact, feeds on dolphins as well as other large fish. In fact, one of the whales had a large tuna in its mouth, which we could clearly see as it unbelievably continued to swim alongside, and under and around our boat. Several of its friends joined it, as if guiding us somewhere. Fabiola tentatively put her GoPro camera under water to film for a few seconds. One of the whales approached, pausing in front of her hand, almost as if it were communicating.

The Grand Finale

The grand finale was watching a sunset from 150 feet off the ground in a tree net. Using a winch harness on a long, dangling rope, we ascended an ancient Baco tree. Focusing on the canopy overhead rather than on the jungle floor becoming smaller and smaller as the winch hummed up the rope, we reached the net and got the monkey’s eye view of the surroundings. From here, we watched the sunset over the ocean while sipping a local beer with our two guides before harnessing back onto the rope and repelling down.

By the time I left the property, the purity of the natural world around me had settled my soul. The experience is the ultimate getaway for nature lovers. It provides a true reminder of the miracle of life in its countless, stunningly beautiful iterations. This is pura vida at its best.

www.corcovadowildernesslodge.com

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St. Phillips Island – A Beach Town Escape

Finding Solace, Simple Luxury & Exploration on an Off the Beaten Path on St. Phillips Island, South Carolina

by Holly Battista-Resignolo

Immersed in the captivating worlds of ‘Where the Crawdads Sing’, and the thrilling escapades of ‘Outerbanks’ alongside my daughter, I found myself bewitched by the allure of South Carolina’s Lowcountry. While fleeting childhood memories of Hilton Head Island lingered, it was the majestic waterways depicted in these tales that ignited my curiosity.

As fate would have it, during a flight from Florida to Philadelphia, the intricate waterways of this lowland paradise unveiled themselves from my plane’s window. Determined to explore, the Universe answered my call with an invitation to the enchanting St. Phillips Island in South Carolina.

Nestled off the coast, St. Phillips Island, a 4-mile-long, 4,680-acre undeveloped barrier island, emerged as a hidden gem of the Lowcountry. Once the prized possession of billionaire conservationist Ted Turner, who ardently safeguarded its natural splendor, the island transitioned into the care of the State of South Carolina in 2017. Operated in harmony with nearby Hunting Island State Park, it stands as a testament to the preservation of pristine beauty.

Aboard a boat ferrying us to the island, the playful dance of dolphins welcomed our group, escorting us through the boat’s wake. The contrast from our dry Rocky Mountain environment was stark, and I marveled at the wilderness that unfolded – marshes, seabirds, meadows, tidal pools, estuaries, and a jungle adorned with palms, live oaks, cedars, magnolia trees, all draped in the deceptive Spanish Moss, a revelation shared by our knowledgeable naturalist guide.

Our haven for the week, The Turner House, a beach retreat constructed by Ted Turner in 1979, cradled us in comfort. With its ten-guest capacity, master bedroom, additional guest bathroom, and a second level boasting four bedrooms and three bathrooms, it exuded a timeless charm. The living room, kitchen, bar area, convertible dining room/game room, and den beckoned us to unwind. The pièce de résistance was the expansive 820-square-foot screened porch, a sanctuary with hammocks and seating, offering a front-row seat to the Atlantic Ocean’s symphony while keeping bugs and winds at bay.

The house rental came with fishing equipment, bikes, kayaks, beach chairs, binoculars, and a delightful surprise – two dedicated naturalists, and incredibly knowledgeable guides to the island’s wonders. From the interior jungle to marshland cruises, and a sunrise coastal tour amidst “ghost forests,” we reveled in the island’s secrets. The naturalists’ fervor for St. Phillips Island, its Native American and Gullah Geechee heritage, and the rich tapestry of flora and fauna left an indelible mark on our hearts.

As dawn painted the sky in pastel hues, bidding farewell to Saint Phillips Island was bittersweet. My heart remained entwined with its allure, the whispers of Saint Philip and echoes of centuries past lingering in the sea breeze, a beckoning call for others to uncover the enchantment that awaits on this hidden gem off the South Carolina coast.

For those eager to embark on this adventure, both day trips and house rentals are available. Visit the South Carolina State Parks website for details. 

The Turner House presents a remarkable opportunity for small groups and retreats, with standard rentals priced at $12,000 (for five nights), including a $1,000 grocery credit. 

Exclusive rentals, at $20,000 (for five nights) with a $2,000 grocery credit, offer the added allure of a private island experience, including optional ranger-led programs. 

Exclusive rentals require booking more than 90 days in advance. It’s a journey into nature’s embrace, an invitation to uncover the magic of St. Phillips Island.

A South Carolina State Parks represntaitve will be able to assit you with this request.

www.southcarolinaparks.com/hunting-island/the-turner-house#jump